COAST TO COAST WALK FROM THE IRISH TO THE NORTH SEA 10-26 SEPTEMBER 2007

The Coast to Coast walk was devised by Alfred Wainwright in the 1970s. It covers 307 km. Wainwright’s route starts at St Bees on the Irish Sea Coast, traverses the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors, finishing at Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea. The walk is not a National Trail and is not signposted along its length – ordinance maps and a compass are needed at times to follow the track. The following is a brief diary of The Bush Club’s Coast to Coast Walk in September 2007. The weather was exceptional for the walk, especially in the Lake District.

Diary and most photos by Jan Wilson (a couple form John)

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Day 1 – St Bees to Ennerdale (31 km) - Ennerdale Youth Hostel

Leaving St Bees

Beautiful sunny day as we left the Stone House Farm and walked via the 12th century St Bees Priory Church down to the beach for the traditional dipping of the boots in the sea and collecting a pebble to carry to Robin Hood’s Bay. The narrow, steep C2C track followed the St Bees headland – the nuclear power plant at Sellarfield (soon to be decommissioned) could be seen to the south, the town of Whitehaven to the north. Stopped in the village of Sandwith (pronounced ‘Sanith’) for morning tea. From here the track turned inland, through farms, along right of ways and along country roads. After Cleator quite a steep climb through plantations up Dent Fell, towards the hills and fells of the Lake District. Steep descent, then along valley through Nannycatch Gate to Ennerdale Bridge for a welcome drink at the local pub.

It was a further 9 km to the Ennerdale Youth Hostel. Chose to walk on the northern side of Lake Ennerdale which was particularly beautiful in the warm late afternoon light.

Lake Ennerdale

Day 2 – Ennerdale to Borrowdale (12 km) – Borrowdale Youth Hostel
As the weather was so magnificent, decided to take the longer, high route over to Haystacks, where Alfred Wainwright’s ashes were scattered. The day began with a 2 hour climb up Red Pike to the top of Loft Beck where the views from the summit were fantastic, especially on such glorious day! Magnificent views back to Ennerdale Lake, to the sea, Cockermouth Lake, Lowesmouth Water and Buttermere. Walked along the ridge to High Stile and High Cragg and then a long scramble down a steep slope covered in scree – hard going. Cairns (to which we added stones as we went by) indicated the route to be followed.

Climbing Red Pike

After lunch started the climb up the next hill to Haystacks. Walked beside the Innominate Tarn, then past a disused quarry, along the disused train line and down another rocky track to Honiston Pass. Easy walk, mostly on tarmac, to the hostel.

Rocky track down to Honiston Pass

Day 3 – Borrowdale to Grasmere (11 km) – Thorney How Youth Hostel, outskirts of Grasmere
Another fine, sunny day. Walked through delightful village of Stonethwaite, across a stone bridge and began climbing into the hills – great views back to Borrowdale. At top of path came to Lining Crag – like climbing a pyramid; continued upwards across open ground high in the hills. From here chose higher track leading past Gibson Knott – wonderful views down into the valley of Grasmere.

John on Helm Crag

From high point of Helm Crag descended down steep zig-zag path to Thorney How Youth Hostel. As hostel did not open until 5 pm walked into Grasmere town – explored the village and visited church with Wordsworth’s grave.

The path down to Grasmere

Day 4 – Grasmere to Patterdale (11 km) – Patterdale Youth Hostel
Day began with mist on the mountains and cleared to a beautiful day. A long climb to Grisedale Tarn, following the old pony route straight up beside Little Tongue Gill.

Path from Grasmere to Grisedale Tarn

At Grisedale Tarn the weather became cooler (11 degrees) and windy. From here Kay, Jane, Rogo and John headed further upwards over Helvellyn (3rd highest mountain in England) and along Striding Edge – an exciting knife edge of rocks rising and falling above steep valleys. The mist remained heavy but occasionally cleared – climb up Helvellyn straightforward but steep. Mist became clearer during the rugged descent to the beginning of Striding Edge – then went up and down across the rocks – plenty of foot and hand holds but at one point crawled on all fours where there was a steep drop on either side of half metre wide path. Then followed the long descending track to Patterdale.

Striding Edge

The rest of the group meandered down through Patterdale Valley, enjoying the views of the high mountains – past the old Ruthwaite Lodge Outward Bound Hut. From here we took the higher left hand track which met up with the path from Striding Edge just before the village.

Day 5 – Patterdale to Bampton Grange (24 km) – Crown & Mitre Pub
The overcast morning cleared to a magic afternoon. Very steep climb out of Patterdale – soon walking across treeless hills and fells, past the ruins of Boredale House and Angle Tarn. Further climb to Kidsty Pike (780 m) – the highest point on the walk.

Kaye on Kidsty Pike

Long steep descent to Hawsewater, then a long walk along the edge of the extended lake created in 1930 to supply water to Manchester. This track finished at Birbank, originally a housing settlement near the weir for the dam builders. From here we cut across stone-fenced fields to the attractive village of Bampton Grange – about 10 stone cottages, a church, telephone box and the Crown & Mitre pub.

Village of Bampton Grange

Day 6 – Bampton Grange to Kirkby Stephen (32 km) – The Kings Arms
As Bampton Grange was about 8 km off the C2C track, we took a taxi to Shap to recommence the walk. Shap appeared quite dull – a cement works and the associated quarry dominate the townscape.

The last views of the beautiful Lake District. In the distance we could see Kidsty Pike.

The track continued through farmland. Past a rocky outcrop dubiously dubbed Robin Hood’s Grave, then down to the village of Orton to the famous Kennedy Chocalatier for hot chocolate! Back up onto the heather covered moors. Lovely English rural views – dry-stone fences, stiles, sheep (with tails) and milking cows.

Another stile

Passed the disused train line and quarry it served when mining was the main activity in the area.

Beautiful views towards the Smardalegill Viaduct. Continued across more farmland – quite exposed and bleak with cold winds although it was still sunny and finally Kirkby Stephen came into view. Crossed under a disused railway bridge and walked through a dairy farm, very close to the shed where milking was in progress and reached the edge of the large town.

Kirkby Stephen is a relatively large town -there is a Wesleyan Chapel built in the 1800s, a Temperance Hall, Masonic Hall, 3 pubs. The main church of St Stephen with its large square Tudor clock tower is entered through an impressive arch from the market square into a cloistered area with church cottages on one side. The site has been a place of worship since 900 AD (Saxon) – later rebuilt by the Normans. This church founded in 1351. The “Coast to Coast” fish shop was a favourite of Alfred Wainwright, who devised the Coast to Coast Walk.

Our hotel at Kirkby Stephen

Day 7 Kirkby Stephen
Rained most of the ‘non walk’ day

Day 8 – Kirkby Stephen to Keld (18 km) – Keld House B&B
Crossed Frank’s Bridge, walked through trees until we reached a tarmac road, then onto moorlands. Followed path up to Nine Standards – shrouded in mist and quite ghost like.

Three of the Nine Standards in the mist

Walked through the moors and some peat bogs but not as boggy as stories we had heard before our walk! Signs requested walkers to keep to paths to conserve the heather - degradation was evident. Grouse could be seen flying in and out of the heather. Passed a number of small deserted stone buildings – possibly shepherd’s huts from previous times.

Beautiful rural countryside on the walk down into Keld – stone farmhouses, fences, barns and stiles. We are now into the Yorkshire Dales. Keld village consisted of only a few stone cottages, one of which served as a village store, and a church.

Day 9 – Keld to Reeth (19 km) – Grinston Lodge Youth Hostel
Choice of two routes – the higher ‘industrial’ path (favoured by Wainwright) to see the effect on the moorlands of the disbanded lead mines or the lower route, through Swaledale – called by Wainwright “the royal route from Keld to Reeth”. We chose the latter.

Walked beside the Swale River – a long but easy walk. Rich green countryside, lots of stone cottages, walls and stiles. Each field appeard to have its own stone barn, now abandoned and derelict. More black-faced sheep. Diverted to the stone village of Murker – truly picture postcard perfect! Stopped also at Gunnerside – neither town’s teashops were open!

Village of Murker

Arrived in Reeth about 3.45 pm – quite a large, attractive town built on the side of a slope, around a large grassed square. The Grinstone Lodge Youth Lodge was about 5 km further on from Reeth, up a very steep road. It was a former grouse hunting lodge and must have been a grand building in Victorian times. In 1948 the lodge and 5 acres were sold to the Youth Hostel Association for 5,000 pounds

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Village of Reeth

Day 10 – Reeth to Richmond (17 km) – Black Lion
Again followed the Swale River, then across rich agricultural land. Countryside changed to more trees. Continued on through farms. Stopped at Marrick Priory (founded in 1154 for Benedectine Nuns – dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540 – now an outdoors activity centre) before climbing the 375 steps of the Nun’s Causey through Steps Wood. Continued on to Marske village and visited St Edmunds church.

Richmond is an attractive large town built around a cobbled market square. Its Norman Castle is quite magnificent with expansive local views from its turrets. The oldest Georgian Theatre still intact and operating is located in Richmond. The original was opened in 1788. In Georgian times Richmond was a cultural centre like Bath and people came for “the season”.

The 'group' outside Richmond

Day 11 – Richmond to Danby Wiske (23 km) – The White Swan
Followed the Swale River for most of the day – the rabbits had been very active in burrowing into the riverbank – they must be a considerable problem for farmers.

Compared with other days, the day was fairly uninteresting. Walked through many farms – mostly dairy but some crops, no sheep. Most harvesting had been completed with large rolls of hay for winter feed.

Cows near Danby Wiske

Day 12 – Danby Wiske to Osmotherly (23 km) – Osmotherly Youth Hostel
Today’s walk more interesting than yesterday. Walked along country roads and across fields through the Vale of Mowbray, rich agricultural land.

At Ingleby Cross (steady rain) we stopped at Bluebell Inn hoping for a coffee – kind publican opened pub especially for us. When we came out the rain had stopped and sunshine arrived.

The White Swan Pub

Walked through the Cleveland Forest which was quite beautiful and then down into the pretty town of Osmotherly, with its stone cottages and pubs. One was called “Queen Catherine” (only pub in England using the name of Catherine of Aragon, others are known as Elephant and Castle – a play on her title, Infanta de Castile. We are now in the North Yorkshire Moors National Park.

Cleveland Forest

The youth hostel was formerly a flax factory and an attractive row of stone terrace houses in the village had been cottages for the workers.

Village of Osmotherly

Day 13 – Osmotherly (non walk day)
Most people visited Northallerton, the municipal city for the North Yorkshire Moors.

Spent some time in the old church – a centre of worship since the 7th century. On many pieces of church furniture a small mouse had been carved – the signature of the carpenter, Mousie Thompson. These ‘mice’ were found also in churches we visited in other parts of Yorkshire. Picture on right is from Northallerton church.

Day 14 – Osmotherly to Clay Bank Top (18 km) – Maltkiln B&B
Left Osmotherly by the track up through South Wood and emerging on Scarth Wood Moor. Lots of ups and downs throughout the day – followed the Cleveland Way, much of which was a path of stone slabs.

Scarth Wood Moor

Beautiful day’s walk – great variety, many woodland paths, then extensive moors, followed the high route with fabulous views down into rich farmland, highlighted by spots of sunshine.

Climbed up to Wainstones – a weird rock outcrop high on the moors – before crossing the flat top of Hasty Bank and the steep drop into Clay Bank Top.

The Wainstones

Final walk though field from Clay Bank Top lookout to Maltkiln Farm B&B in Bilsdale Valley. Rent records date back to 1637 - part of vast landed estates where tenant farmers lived out their meagre lives. Local church founded in 1132. Great Cistercian monasteries close by ( eg Rievaulx) which introduced sheep farming and heather cultivation on high moors.

Day 15 Clay Bank Top to Blakey Ridge (15 km) – The Lion Inn
Over stile, up steep path behind the B&B through pine trees and bracken. Path followed fire trail across the Urra Moor through heather, past the Face Stone, an ancient direction marker. Path then followed the disused railway for 8 km.

Walking on the disused railay track across Urra Moor

When visible, the valleys (mostly Farndale) were green and lush. A few scattered black, faced sheep on moor.

Observed the intensive preparations for grouse shooting and passed many “grouse butts” where the shooters camouflage themselves in the heather.

Continued on in wonderful sunny weather until the remote Lion Inn came into view on the deserted moorland.

“On Blakey Ridge between Rosedale and Farndale stands the Lion Inn. Few inns are so remote, but evidence around Blakey suggests that it has been known to travellers since man first set foot in the district.”

“….. much of the earliest history of the Lion Inn, one of Yorkshire’s oldest and the fourth highest in England, still remains a mystery.”

Day 16 – Blakey Ridge to Littlebeck (29 km) – Middlethorpe B&B at Fylingthorpe
Walked a few miles along road in quite heavy rain then across the moor – bleak, but atmosphere seemed appropriate! Rain stopped about 1 pm and weather continued to improve to a magnificent afternoon. Passed two medieval crosses – “Fat Betty” and “Young Ralph”. Great views to Rosedale and Fryupdale. Passed the disused ‘Trough House’ shooting lodge.

'Fat Betty' and mediaval cross

Down into Glaisdale for lunch at the Arncliffe Arms. Then up a paved medieval road through woodlands to village of Egton Bridge. Walked through farms and into Grosmont – home of Thomas the Tank Engine (centre for steam train rides).

Steep haul up bitumen road to open moor – from top could see the sea and the Abbey at Whitby. Then down steep gravel lane into picturesque Littlebeck – a cluster of stone houses and a church around the river.

From here we went in minibus to our B&B.

Day 17 – Littlebeck to Robin Hood’s Bay (15 km - Middlethorpe B&B at Fylingthorpe
Back in minibus to Littlebeck to continue walk where we left it yesterday. Climbed up the muddy track to Falling Foss, then further upwards to the moor where the weather changed for the worse. Crossing Smeaton Lane Moor it began to hail. Weather changed rapidly and there were blue skies but very windy and cold.

Lunch at the Hare and Hounds in High Hawkser. Then out into the windy, sunny weather for the walk along tarmac to the coast for the final stage of the walk.

First sight of the Irish Sea

Rejoined the Cleveland Way and followed the headland path around to Robin Hood’s Bay – magnificent wild coastal scenery.

What a sense of satisfaction to reach the slipway at the Bay for the traditional dipping of the boots into the water. Then into the Bay pub for a celebratory drink in the Wainwright Bar, sign “the book” and buy a certificate!