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| Makalu base camp trek report
We flew out from Sydney on April 4, overnighted in Bangkok and flew into Kathmandu the next day. At Kathmandu airport one of the questions on the customs form is whether you are carrying more than the equivalent of two thousand American greenbacks. Given that we were to pay the trekking company in cash we all answered yes to the question. The officials don’t really look at the forms, so you just hand them in and walk through.
The drive from the airport bisected an unfortunate socio-economic truth: to the left, typical third world conditions and on the right a private golf course for the privileged few. Prior to starting the trek we had a couple of days in Katmandu. When returning from a monkey temple we encountered a massive traffic jam, evidently caused by a queue of people bound together like a conga chain. As our vehicle slowly moved down the crowded street there was no sign that that the queue had an end. Eventually, about four kilometers later our rough estimate would have been twenty thousand or more. And the reason for the guiness-worthy attempt at the longest human chain: the issuing of new mobile phone sim cards! Things we take for granted assume a different importance in Nepal. On
April 7 we flew east from Katmandu to Tumlingtar - about one hour’s
flight. The landing on grass was a first for most. There we met our
support crew (chief guide, sherpas, cook, kitchen staff and porters.) Everything has to be carried. The loads they bore and the ease with which the porters would traverse over all types of terrain was nothing short of unbelievable. For our trek porters carry about 40 kilos; village porters, who carry goods between villages loads, can be up to 70 kilos. Later in the trek Bob hoisted a porter’s load on his back. I think he soon realised he shouldn’t give up his day job. So we individually did not have to carry much, a day pack with water, rain gear, munchies camera etc. Typically each day we walked for 5 to 7 hours. The first night we camped at Khandbari the largest town of the region. Khandbari dogs undergo a Jekyll and Hyde transformation – docile by day; Hounds of Baskerville by night. Curious children surrounded us as we camped in the villages, captivated at the images on our digital cameras. In this setting Helen Fastovsky and John de Coque came to the fore and displayed a wonderful ability to entertain and hold their attention.
Many of the smaller villages we passed through did not have electricity; some did have satellite phones powered by solar energy.
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We started to reach temperate/sub alpine regions. Towards the later part of the day we hit snow and what a feeling it was going through forests of snow-covered rhododendrons. We wondered if Kaye’s Dunlop volleys would hold up.
We stayed one more day in Khongma and all of us climbed about 200 meters higher, a few made it 300 metres further. Spectacular mountain views ensued and no photo could ever capture the feeling of being on top of the world.
At
the end of the day, nearing Tashigaon, we passed a fast-flowing mountain
stream, about 20 minutes before campsite. Normally our body washing
was limited to the bowl of warm water each evening, so the prospect
of being able to wash all the body was very attractive as fasting is
to Paris Hilton. So after we set up camp Bob, John Wilson, Trish, Kaye
and myself went back. The men, not wanting to flaunt their tired bodies,
went down stream and discreetly completed their bathing. However, Trish
and Kaye decided to bathe right by the path. In the two weeks of trekking
we only saw three Europeans but at the exact time that Trish and Kaye
were in their birthday suits a portly bearded Englishman with about
20 support staff appeared, once again, great timing hey. He did make
some comments which I will not repeat here but apparently all the porters
had wide grins on their faces at the sight of these naked nymphs. So the Makalu trek turned out to be two weeks instead of the originally planned twenty days. Most of the group went on to do another five day trek in the Helambu region, at a lower altitude, whilst I decided to head home. They no doubt had a fun time on that trip, but that’s a story for another day. There are many stories of trekking in Nepal bringing out the worst in people but I’m pleased to report our group all got on incredibly well.
Each of us had our own reasons for undertaking this trek but for me it was to be out of my comfort zone, to be in a vastly different culture, to be part of a team and of course to be close to the world’s highest mountains. Life is very tough for most Nepalese yet they still laugh and smile and I think we all realised what a privileged life we have in the west. And finally a large thanks to our leader Tony for his planning, leadership and patience. Without Tony this trek would not have taken place. by Chris Bennett Photos: Bob Wood, Erith Hamilton, John de Coque, Tony Hickson, Kaye Birch, Jacqui Hickson, John Wilson |
The
trekkers -Tony Hickson, Jacqui Hickson, Kaye Birch, Trish Molinari,
John Wilson, Bob Wood, Erith Hamilton, John de Coque, Helen Fastovsky,
Chris Bennett
However,
John de Coque, perhaps under the influence of his South African heritage,
felt compelled to personally explain to an official what he had written.
The Nepalese bureaucracy quickly flung into action, but fortunately,
after a long twenty minutes, John emerged into the sunlight unscathed
but wiser. Nima our Nepalese trek organiser then greeted us. If ever
struck for the correct English response to a question, especially
one which featured the word ‘money’, Nima’s response
was steadfastly consistent: “yes please”. 
Yes, they numbered 26 to look after our group of 10.
A
couple of days into to the trek and the track was beginning to open
up – literally. A rudimentary road was being constructed. Road
works in the West is highly automated but not out here it isn’t
– everything is done by hand by hand. Large rocks are broken
up by sledge hammers and used as retaining walls for the road. Dirt
is moved about mainly by pulling it along on Hessian sacking (virtually
no wheelbarrows!). The work is all done by the local villagers: men,
women and children (some very young!). 
Several
days later we camped at Tashigaon (2000 meters). That night most discussion
was centered on the next days climb to Khongma which would elevate us
another 1500 meters to a very respectable 3500. Naturally, thoughts
of altitude sickness and the difficulty that lay ahead pervaded our
thought, but, as so often happens, the climb was not as hard as we imagined.
At
Khongma our sherpa guide became the messenger that so often plays the
target for some easy shooting when he relayed the news that due to severe
snow conditions ahead we would not be able to get to our ultimate destination
of Makalu base camp and would need to turn back. Apparently just before
we arrived in Nepal, they experienced the largest April snow-storm in
40 years, great timing hey. Understandably we all were disappointed,
but this trip was a lot more than just reaching a destination, the journey
was the experience. 
The
next day we faced the 1500-metre descent from Khongma to Tashigaon.
The first part was through the snow. Most of the kitchen staff and porters
left before us but, curiously, were asked to wait before we descended.
We couldn’t quite work out why we should not start our descent
but when all the kitchen staff and porters climbed back the answer was
clear. Apparently we as a group were perceived as (to use ‘western
speak’) requiring individualised value-added aged-care services.
So a helper took us by the hand individually and we merrily went on
our way down, looking a little like a Moonie group wedding.
We
continued our return journey and after 5 days arrived back at Tumlingtar
for the flight back to Kathmandu. As per tradition on this night the
support staff received their well-earned gratuity. As a group we then
presented an acted out rendition of Waltzing Matilda. Erith played a
fine jumbuck and obviously enjoyed being stuffed into a tucker bag.
For some reason, the group decided that a New Zealander – me –
should have the starring role of the swagman. Maybe they thought my
acting skills would be better than my singing skills. The night concluded
with a slow gyrating Nepalese dance. Fortunately learning the lyrics
did not require mental inspiration – recite one verse then repeat,
repeat and repeat. By the end of the night Jacqui seemed to be getting
the hang of it. 
It
was Disraeli who said there are lies, dammed lies, and statistics Our
trek stats: 10,500 metres ascended in the first trek, 13,100 metres
in total for both treks. Point of reference: Mt Everest is 8,500 metres.